Do you have access to logs? Do you have a bandsaw? Can you make a jig? If you answered yes to these questions you can mill your own lumber from logs. Let's see how...
If you're a weekend woodworker or have a small woodworking shop like mine, using logs to make your own lumber is a great way to get free wood for small projects. It's also a satisfying process that lets you use trees from your own yard for sentimental value, or experiment with different varieties of trees that can't normally be found at hardwood suppliers. Keep in mind that the curing process takes about a year if you cut them into 1" slabs so this is a project for those with patience.
The picture to the right is some Bradford Pear that came from a tree we had to cut down because it was threatening to fall on our house with every Kansas thunderstorm that came through.
Step 1 - Choosing a Log
First and foremost, it's important to choose logs from a wood variety that's actually worth using. In most cases, this means choosing a hardwood like oak, maple, or walnut or a quality softwood like cedar. If you're not sure, do some research and find out if it's a suitable variety for woodworking. If you can't find any information, just give it a try - you may be surprised by the results. I've milled Bradford pear, southern live oak, apricot, and Osage orange with good results. The Bradford pear in particular was interesting because many people now consider this an invasive species known for its stinky smell and branches that break off easily. Contrary to its bad reputation as a tree, it makes an excellent wood for milling. It's a hardwood, dense, tight-grained, and finishes nicely with a warm white to pinkish tone.
Here's a picture of the Bradford pear tree that eventually became lumber. A storm snapped off this branch and barely missed falling on our home so we decided to cut it all down.
Step 2 - Cross Cut Logs to Length
In this step, its important to consider your bandsaw size so you can cut logs to an ideal size. Specifically, the diameter of the log needs to be less than the max height your bandsaw can cut. My bandsaw is a Laguna 1412 with a max vertical capacity of 14" high.
I usually try to find logs that are 8-12" in diameter and mostly straight sections. The next thing to consider is the length you're cutting the logs to. If you have an infeed and outfeed table for your bandsaw you'll be able to cut longer logs. I don't have infeed/outfeed tables so I usually keep mine to 36" or less. Large hardwood logs get heavy fast!
Step 3 - Making a Jig
A jig is a must when milling round logs. DO NOT try to push a round log through your bandsaw - the log could roll suddenly, snapping your blade and possibly injuring you in the process. The jig for this project is basically a sled that holds the log completely stable so you can push it through your bandsaw and get perfectly straight cuts. Here's an overview of how I made my log milling jig.
Jig Materials
*3/4" MDF or Plywood
*Hardwood Strip (for miter slot runner)
*Wood Glue
*Harbor Freight 36" Bar Clamp
*Hardware (screws, bolts, knobs)
I started with a rectangular base cut from 3/4" plywood. Glue and nail or screw a hardwood runner to the bottom that fits the miter slot of your bandsaw. Add the runner square to your rectangular piece and so that there's some extra for your bandsaw blade to cut off.
Make sure your screws or nails are recessed completely since your jig won't slide smoothly if they protrude at all. Once your runner is attached permanently, run the sled through the bandsaw one time to cut off the excess. With this done, the edge of your sled now shows you exactly the line your bandsaw will cut.
Next, you'll make the adjustable vertical fence with more of your 3/4" material. It's basically an "L" shaped piece with triangle supports on the back. I cut handle grooves in mine to make the jig easier to use. There are also grooves in the bottom fence piece to make the fence adjustable. Drill recessed holes in your main base piece to allow for two bolts to come through, and then use a star knob or wingnut on the top to loosen/tighten the sled to the base piece. With this done you can slide the fence closer or further away from the blade to adjust for different log sizes and to incrementally adjust when cutting slabs.
The last thing to do is attach some kind of clamp to your vertical fence that will hold your log stationary while being pushed through the bandsaw. In my case, I used a cheap 36" Harbor Freight bar clamp that worked out almost perfect. I had to add some spacers between the clamp and the fence to make it work. Once your clamp is installed you're ready for a test run!
Step 4 - Turn Your Log into Slabs
Your jig is done and it's time to start cutting up those logs! Choose a smaller, straight log for your first run so you can work out any kinks with your jig and make sure your bandsaw is cutting smooth. You should be using a blade suitable for resawing. I recently splurged on a Laguna 3/4" Resaw King and it has been worth it for me. In these pictures, I believe I was using a 1/2" all-purpose blade and it still did a pretty decent job.
Begin by finding the natural resting position for your log (the position that feels least likely to roll or shift). Place it on your sled in that position so that enough hangs over the edge of the jig for your bandsaw to cut a chunk off and leave a flat surface. Clamp it in tightly, tighten your fence, and push it through! Woohoo! If all went well one portion of your log is now flat. Rotate it 90 degrees with the flat side down, clamp it in again, and start cutting slabs! You can cut them at any thickness you choose, but keep in mind that "green" wood usually takes one year to dry per one inch of thickness (i.e. two-inch thick slabs would take two years to dry.) On the flip-side, if you cut them too thin they may twist, crack, and deform so much that they become unusable by the end of the drying process.
Step 5 - Paint Ends, Stack, Wait
Paint the ends of each slab, which helps the wood dry more evenly and hopefully prevents major checking (cracking) at the ends of each slab. Cut some "stickers" - little pieces of scrap wood to place between each slab when stacking to promote drying - and then stack them up. You can place heavy items on top of your stack or use wire to twist and hold
pressure down on the stack. This helps them stay flatter during the drying process. I'm lazy and I figured it's free lumber anyway so I just stacked them up and left them in a backyard shed.
Step 6 - Make Something Using Your Hard-Earned Lumber
Wait long enough for the slabs to dry and then make something cool! Don't expect the slabs to be perfectly flat - some milling will be required - you've come this far though. Don't give up yet! The final results are definitely worth it.
These drawer fronts were made with a Bradford pear I cut down in my yard. Ignore the mess! You can see which brother is more organized ;)
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